HISTORIES
Phnom Penh
Phnom Penh is the biggest capital of Cambodia which covers an area of 41Km2. It is the center of business, economy, politic, education, communication and tourism. Phnom Penh also bears another name - Krong Chatomuk, The Four Faces City - referring to its unique location, at the four arms formed by the upper and lower Mekong, the Tonle Sap and Tonle Basac. Phnom Penh was founded in 1434 after an expanding Siamese Kingdom in the west, the Khmer Kind Ponhea Yat abandoned Angkor in 1431. The seat of power was successively transferred to the sites of Lovek, Oudong, and finally in what is the nation's present day capital. The name of Phnom Penh derived from a man-made hill which made an initiative to build by Old Lady, her name Dohn Penh(Phnom meant"Hill", Penh Penh meant "Hill of Lady Penh").The legend, from the Cambodia chronicles, states that Lady Penh had discovered four images of Buddha hidden in a tree-trunk floating on the Tonle Sap river. For the villagers, this was a marvelous miracle, so they spread word where pagoda was built in 1372, to house the sacred images of Budda. Phnom Penh's ear of modern development and planning took place after independence in 1953, with the addition of three lined avenues, gardens with fountains and several distinctive monuments reflecting the city's new found sense of freedom. Modern day Phnom Penh is a bustling city and one can see scaffolding riding all over as demand for new housing and office space keeps growing.
Royal Palace
Situated on the site of the former Citadel, it was built by King Norodom in 1866 on the banks of the Mekong River. Inside its gleaming yellow walls are the Throne Hall; the Chan Chaya Pavilion, specially made for performances of classical Cambodian dance; the Napoleon III Pavilion, offered to King Norodom by Queen Eugenie, wife of Napoleon III, and the King's and Queen's residential quarters. Nowadays, only the Silver Pagoda can be visited.
(Sothearos between Street 240 & 184 - 6.3USD/Person. Open everyday, 7:30-11:00 / 2:30-5:00)
The Royal Palace in Phnom Penh was constructed over a century ago to serve as the residence of the King of Cambodia, his family and foreign dignitaries, as a venue for the performance of court ceremony and ritual and as a symbol of the Kingdom. It serves to this day as the Cambodian home of King Norodom Sihamoni and former King Norodom Sihanouk. The Royal Palace complex and attached 'Silver Pagoda' compound consist of several buildings, structures and gardens all located within 500x800 meter walled grounds overlooking a riverfront park. Marking the approach to the Palace, the high sculpted wall and golden spired Chanchhaya Pavilion stand distinctively against the riverfront skyline. Inside the Palace grounds, street sounds are silenced by the high walls and the various Royal buildings sit like ornate islands rising from the tranquil, manicured tropical gardens. Except for the area of the actual Royal residence, the Khemarin Palace, most of thePalace grounds and Silver Pagoda are open to the public. Enter from the gate on Sothearos Blvd about 100 meters north of Street 240. Guide pamphlets and tour guides are available near the admission booth. Guided tours are recommended. Multi-lingual tour guides available. Admission: $3.00/person, $2.00/camera, $5.00/video camera. Open everyday, 7:30-11:00 / 2:00-5:00. The Palace grounds are closed during official functions.
History of the Royal Palace
The establishment of the Royal Palace at Phnom Penh in 1866 is a comparatively recent event in the history of the Khmer and Cambodia. The seat of Khmer power in the region rested at or near Angkor north of the Great Tonle Sap Lake from 802 AD until the early 15th century. After the Khmer court moved from Angkor in the 15th century, it first settled in Phnom Penh in 1434 (or 1446) and stayed for some decades, but by 1494 had moved on to Basan, and later Lovek and then Oudong. The capital did not return to Phnom Penh until the 19th century and there is no record or remnants of any Royal Palace in Phnom Penh prior to the 19th century. In 1813, King Ang Chan (1796-1834) constructed Banteay Kev (the 'Cristal Citadel') on the site of the current Royal Palace and stayed there very briefly before moving to Oudong. Banteay Kev was burned in 1834 when the retreating Siamese army razed Phnom Penh. It was not until after the implementation of the French Protectorate in Cambodia in 1863 that the capital was moved from Oudong to Phnom Penh, and the current Royal Palace was founded and constructed.
At the time that King Norodom (1860-1904) signed the Treaty of Protection with France in 1863, the capital of Cambodia resided at Oudong, about 45 kilometers northeast of Phnom Penh. Earlier in 1863 a temporary wooden Palace was constructed a bit north of the current Palace site in Phnom Penh. The first Royal Palace to be built at the present location was designed by architect Neak Okhna Tepnimith Mak and constructed by the French Protectorate in 1866. That same year, King Norodom moved the Royal court from Oudong to the new Royal Palace in Phnom Penh and the city became the official capital of Cambodia the following year. Over the next decade several buildings and houses were added, many of which have since been demolished and replaced, including an early Chanchhaya Pavilion and Throne Hall (1870). The Royal court was installed permanently at the new Royal Palace in 1871 and the walls surrounding the grounds were raised in 1873. Many of the buildings of the Royal Palace, particularly of this period, were constructed using traditional Khmer architectural and artistic style but also incorporating significant European features and design as well. One of the most unique surviving structures from this period is the Napoleon Pavilion which was a gift from France in 1876.
King Sisowath (1904-1927) made several major contributions to the current Royal Palace, adding the Phochani Hall in 1907 (inaugurated in 1912), and from 1913-1919 demolishing several old buildings, and replacing and expanding the old Chanchhaya Pavilion and the Throne Hall with the current structures. These buildings employ traditional Khmer artistic style and Angkorian inspired design, particularly in the Throne Hall, though some European elements remain. The next major construction came in the 1930s under King Monivong with the addition of the Royal Chapel, Vihear Suor (1930), and the demolition and replacement of the old Royal residence with the Khemarin Palace (1931), which serves as the Royal residence to this day. The only other significant additions since have been the 1956 addition of the Villa Kantha Bopha to accommodate foreign guests and the 1953 construction of the Damnak Chan originally installed to house the High Council of the Throne.
From the time of the coup in 1970 when Cambodia became a republic, through the Khmer Rouge regime (Democratic Kampuchea 1975-1979) and the communist regime of the 80s, until 1993 when the Monarchy was restored, the Royal Palace alternately served as a museum and was closed. During the Khmer Rouge regime, former King Sihanouk and his family resided and were ultimately held as prisoners in the Palace. In the mid-90s, many of the Palace buildings were restored and refurbished, some with international assistance.
Royal Palace buildings
Throne Hall The Throne Hall, the Preah Timeang Tevea Vinicchay, is the primary audience hall of the King, used for coronations and diplomatic and other official meetings. This Throne Hall is the second to be built on this site. The first was constructed of wood in 1869-1870 under King Norodom. That Throne Hall was demolished in 1915. The present building was constructed in 1917 and inaugurated by King Sisowath in 1919. The building is 30x60 meters and topped by a 59-meter spire. As with all buildings and structure at the Palace, the Throne Hall faces east and is best photographed in the morning. When visiting note the thrones (Reach Balaing in front and Preah Tineang Bossobok higher at the back) and the beautiful ceiling frescoes of the Reamker.
Chanchhaya Pavilion The current Pavilion is the second incarnation of the Chanchhaya Pavilion, this one constructed in 1913-14 under King Sisowath to replace the earlier wooden pavilion built under King Norodom. The current pavilion is of the same design as the earlier version. The Chanchhaya Pavilion, also known as the 'Moonlight Pavilion', dominates the facade of the Palace on Sothearos Blvd. The Pavilion serves as a venue for the Royal Dancers, as a tribune for the King to address the crowds and as a place to hold state and Royal banquets. Most recently, the Pavilion was used for a banquet and a tribune for the new King at the 2004 coronation of King Norodom Sihamoni.
Hor Samran Phirun "The pavilion where one sleeps peacefully." Royal rest house and waiting area where the King waits to mount an elephant for Royal processions. Also built to house musical instruments and procession implements. Constructed in 1917. Currently housing a display of gifts from foreign heads of state.
Hor Samrith Phimean Also know as the ‘Bronze Palace.’ Repository for the Royal regalia and attributes. Constructed in 1917. Currently housing a display of royal regalia and costumes on the ground floor.
Napoleon III Pavilion At first glance the Napoleon III Pavilion seems almost out-of-place, sitting like a European-style dollhouse amongst the imposing and distinctly Khmer-style buildings that surround it. The Pavilion was in fact the first permanent structure on the site of the Royal Palace. It was originally built for Empress Eugenie of France, wife of Napoleon III, in 1869 for use in the inauguration of the Suez Canal. It is constructed entirely of iron. In 1876 Emperor Napoleon III made a gift of the building to King Norodom of Cambodia. By fortunate happenstance, the royal emblem "N" emblazed on the doors and other parts of the building to honor the name of 'Napoleon' did not need to be altered when the pavilion was transferred to King Norodom. The Pavilion was refurbished in 1991 with financial assistance from the French government. The Pavilion now serves as a small museum housing Royal memorabilia and a photographic exhibition. Best photographed in the morning. (Damnak Chan pictured in the background.)
Phochani Pavilion An open hall originally constructed as a classical dance theater. The Pavilion is currently used for Royal receptions and meetings. Built in 1912.
Damnak Chan The Damnak Chan currently houses the administrative offices of the Royal Palace. Original constructed in 1953 for the High Council of the Throne, this building has served several purposes over the years including acting as the Ministry of Culture in the 80s and housing the Supreme National Council of Cambodia from 1991-93. Damnak Chan displays a somewhat uncomfortable mix of Khmer and Western architectural styles, the mix being particularly apparent in this building - sporting a distinctly Khmer-style roof and a Western style in the main body of the building. Closed to the public.
Khemarin Palace The Royal residence. Closed to the public.
Villa Kantha Bopha Western-style villa named after King Sihanouk's late daughter Princess Kantha Bopha, built in 1956 as guest house for foreign guests. Closed to the public.
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Silver Pagoda
Also called the Pagoda of the Emerald Buddha, it is located in the compound of the Royal Palace. Inside its floor is constructed of 5000 silver tiles. In the center of the pagoda there is a magnificent 17th-century emerald Buddha statue made of baccarat crystal. The walls enclosing the pagoda are covered with frescoes depicting episodes from the Khmer version of the Ramayana.
____________________Independence Monument
Inaugurated in 1958 to celebrate Cambodia's independence from foreign rule. It now also serves as monument to Cambodia's war dead. At night the monument is very tastefully illuminated by red, blue and white floodlights - the colors of the Canbodian flag. It is the site of celebrations and services on holidays such as Independence Day and Constitution Day. Trespassing onto the monument is illegal (sometimes). The best view is from across the street anyway.
(At the intersection of Norodom and Sihanouk)
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National Museum:
Located near the Royal Palace, Cambodia's National Museum offers a charming setting for a stunning collection of ancient Khmer art. Predominantly constructed of sandstone, the sculptures date from both the Angkorean and pre-Angkorean eras. These exhibits are complemented by more recent examples of Cambodian art. The museum is housed in a terra-cotta-roofed structure of traditional Cambodian design, which was built between 1917 and 1920. Apart from artistic treasures, the building is also home to a large colony of Cambodian freetail bats. The colony has lived in the building's rafters for years and is believed to be the largest group of bats living in a man-made structure anywhere in the world. But visitors need not worry about becoming a guano target, as the Australian government reinforced the ceiling of the museum in 1997. The only time you are likely to see the bats is when they fly from the roof en masse at dusk each evening. (Street 178 & Street 13, next to the Royal Palace) 8:00-11:30 and 2:00-5:00, open everyday).............................................................................
Wat Phnom
...The history of Wat Phnom is that in 1372 Lady Penh discovered four Buddha statues. She decided to create the hill (phnom) that is today the site of Wat Phnom and atop the hill she created a small temple (wat) to house the statues. The story continues that eventually the area became known as Phnom Penh in recognition of Lady Penh and the hill. The current temple contains the remains of King Ponhea Vat (1405-1467) and it was this King that relocated the capital of Cambodia from Angkor to Phnom Penh in 1422.The hill today is a busy site as the temple is active and draws lots of local people. You can take an elephant ride and there are many stalls selling food and drinks. Entrance to Wat Phnom is US$1.
(Intersection of Street 96 and Norodom Blvd. - $1/person)WatOunalom:
Facing the Tonle Sap River near the Royal Palace, this pagoda serves as the headquarters for one of Cambodia's most revered Buddhist patriarchs.Toul Sleng Genocide Muneum (S-21)
Prior to 1975, Toul Sleng was a high school. When the Khmer Rouge came to power it was converted into the S-21 prison and interrogation facility. Inmates were systematically tortured, sometimes over a period of months, to extract confessions, after which they were executed at the killing fields of Choeung Ek. S-21 processed over 17,000 people, seven of whom survived. The building now serves as a museum, a memorial and a testament to the madness of the Khmer Rouge regime. Much has been left in the state it was when the Khmer Rouge abandoned it in January 1979. The prison kept extensive records, leaving thousands of photos of their victims, many of which are on display. Paintings of torture at the prison by Vann Nath, a survivor of Toul Sleng, are also on display. The museum's famous and controversial “skull map” has recently been dismantled.(Corner of Street 113 & Street 350 - $2.00 - Open everyday, including holidays, 8AM-5PM Closed for lunch)Choeung Ek Killing Fields Site
From 1975-1979 the ultra-Communist Khmer Rouge regime, led by Pol Pot, controlled Cambodia. During their short reign, between 1 and 2.5 million Cambodians perished, some killed outright, others dying from disease, malnutrition and mistreatment. Many of the dead ended up in “killing fields” I that can be found across the country. The memorial at 1 Choeung Ek just outside Phnom Penh was an orchard! and a Chinese cemetery prior to 1975. During the Khmer Rouge regime it became one of the killing fields the site of the brutal executions of more than 17,000 individuals, most of whom first suffered through torture and deprivation in Toul Sleng Prison. Choeung Ek is now a group of mass graves and a memorial stupa containing thousands of skulls. Combine with a visit to Toul Sleng Genocide Museum.
(15 km southwest of Phnom Penh - Take Monireth 8.5 km past the bridge at Street 271)
The River Front
A stroll or cyclo ride along the park lined riverfront is a must - pubs, restaurants, shops and tourist boats line the way. The view of the confluence of the Mekong and the Tonle Sap is geographically unique. Early risers, check out the spectacular sunrise over the river in front of the Royal Palace.
Traditional Markets (Phsar)
The market places in Cambodian cities and towns always present a hive of activity and a visit to one or two is a great experience for visitors. In Phnom Penh we recommend a visit to the Russian Market and the Central Market. Note that generally most markets open for daylight hours only, from early morning until early evening.
Central Market (Phsar Thmei)
The distinctive art-deco styling of the Central Market makes it a standout in the architecture of Phnom Penh. Phsar Thmei translates to New Market although Central Market is becoming more common; be assured that whichever name you use the moto drivers will know where you want to go. You will find a myriad of stalls offering t-shirts, jewellery, postcards, flowers, house ware, and electronic goods – in fact just about anything you could wish for!
Russian Market (Phsar Toul Tom poung)
So-named because of the prevalence of items from the Eastern Bloc in past times, the Russian Market today is a treasure trove for tourists. Particular items worth seeking out include CD’s, fabrics, jewellery, carved handicrafts and ceramics. There are also a large number of clothing outlets and adjustments can be done readily via the tailors and seamstresses. The food and drinks stalls are a good place to take a refreshment break between the bargaining.
Orussey Market
Centrally located, Orussey Market is much more geared towards locals than tourists; hence you will not find as much in the way of souvenirs as the other markets mentioned. A huge array of foodstuffs is on offer including the wet market with fresh meat, poultry and seafood. Other items in abundance include house ware, hardware and electronic goods.
Old Market (Phsar Chas)
A local market that is not at all geared to the tourist. It carries such items as fruits and vegetable, second hand cloths, hardware, motorcycle parts and religious items. In the late afternoon food vendors and fruit sellers set up mats along Street 13 in preparation for the evening market. The dinner rush hour makes for a confusing, dirty potentially photogenic scene.
Pagodas
In Phnom Penh, you are never outside walking distance of a pagoda. Visitors are almost alway welcome. Ray Zepp's A Field Guide to Cambodian Pagodas is an excellent introduction to Phnom Penh's pagodas and Cambodian Buddhism.
Wat Sotum Significant because it is one of the city's original wats, it was founded in 1422 by King Ponhea Vat. It took its current name in 1865 and its present structure in 1937. Of photographic note: The wat compound is crowded with ornate stupas. Just northwest of the intersection of Sothearos and Sihanouk.
Wat Langka is one of Phnom Penh's five original wats (1422). First established as a sanctuary for the Holy Writings and a meeting place for Cambodian and Sri Lankan monks, the Wat was named in honor of these meetings. Just southwest of the Independence Monument.
Wat Neak Kravorn adorns the western skyline of Boeung Kak lake. This Wat was inaugurated in 1967 and the vihear houses some very unique wall paintings. West on Confederation de la Russie. Turn right at a small street east of Nehru, go through the train yard.
Wat Ounalom is another of Phnom Penh's five original monasteries (1422). Until 1999, it housed the Institut Bouddhique and library. On the riverfront about 250 meters north of the National Museum.
Mekong Island
Small tourist boats can be found along the riverfront north of Street 178. They offer 1-2 hour cruises along the river from Phnom Penh brings tourists to this resort situated on Mekong Island. Tourists can dine in the restaurant, visit the zoo and the weaving villages, ride elephants and watch traditional dance performances.
(Capitol Guesthouse runs budget oriented half-day Mekong cruises for 10$/preson.)
Sunset Cruise on the Mekong & Tonle Sap
A one-hour cruise from the capital takes you along the river to watch the daily life of the people living on and around the rivers. You'll enjoy a magnificent sunset, when the reflected rays of the setting sun cast a golden glow across the river.
Phnom Baset
Located 32 km to northwest of Phnom Penh, Phnom Baset features at the top of the hill a brick sanctuary called Prasat Srey Krup Leak ("Temple of the Perfect Woman"). The extraordinary design of the temple resembles a cave and faces the west, which contrasts with many Khmer temples, which usually face east. The site had been used as a place of worship for many years before the Brahmans transformed it into a specifically Hindu-oriented site.
Koh Dach
Traditional silk weaving villages on a Mekong River island. A half-day boat trip from the capital.
Phnom Oudong
About an hour west of Phnom Penh, just off Route #5, lay the hills of the abandoned royal city, Oudong. Oudong was the capital of Cambodia from the early 17th century until 1866 when the capital was moved to Phnom Penh. Several temples, stupas and other structures cover three hills. The walk up the hill pro- vides an excellent countryside view. There are stupas containing the remains of several Cambodian kings including King Monivong (1927-1941) and King Ang Duong (1845-1859). The earliest structure is from the 13" century. These hills were also the site of some of the Khmer Rouge's most prolonged resistance against the encroaching Vietnamese army in 1979. For some- thing completely different, take a side trip to 'Prasat Nokor Vimean Sour', a concrete, unduly ornate, semi- replica of Angkor Wat built circa 1998. Shared taxis: about $5 per person. Buses depart for Oudong every 30 minutes from the Ho Wah Genting station (2500R).
Tonle Bati
38 kilometers southeast of Phnom Penh, Tonle Bati hosts two noteworthy 12th-century temples. Ta Prohm, built by Jayavarman VII, is consecrated both to Buddha and to Brahma, and is interesting for its refined bas reliefs. Yeay Peou also features intricate bas reliefs.
Prasat Neang Khmao
Also known as the "Temple of the Black Virgin" which may once have served as a sanctuary to Kali, the Dark Goddess of Destruction, it is situated about 55 km south of Phnom Penh.
Phnom Chiso
59 kilometers southeast of Phnom Penh, Phnom Chiso is an 11th-century temple set upon a small mountain offering panoramic vistas of the countryside.
Phnom Tamao
This 1200-hectare animal sanctuary is located about 30 km southeast of Phnom Penh. In recent years, it has been upgraded, and the sun bear enclosure is now one of the best of its type in Asia. There are also other rare species housed here, including tigers, leopards, a lion, and several species of exotic birds. The geography of the sanctuary is quite interesting in itself.
Angkor Borie
Angkor Borie is a town in the area of several ruins and archaeological digs. The area contains artifacts dating from the Funan (4th/5th century) and Water Chenla (8th century) as well as the later Angkorian period. The prasat ruins on top of nearby Phnom Da are 11th century Angkorian. There is a smalll museum in the town.
Siem Reap & Angkor
The world-renowned temples of Angkor are situated in the north-western province of Siem Reap. Within an area of approximately 600 square kilometers, over 100 temples have been discovered. All were built between the 9th and the 13th centuries, and those remaining temples constitute the skeleton of what was once the religious and administrative centre of the Khmer Empire. The constant building program undertaken by successive Khmer kings can be compared favorably with the pyramid construction projects of the Pharaohs in Egypt. Similar to the Pharaohs, the Khmer kings made use of a vast force of slave labor. Each new "project" was made possible by the 750,000 people estimated to have lived at Angkor during the 12th and 13th centuries. Despite the scores of temples that remain today, there is little evidence of these nameless souls who lived in what must have been one of the biggest cities on Earth at the time. This is because the people everyone from the lowliest peasant to the King's most senior courtiers, lived in wooden structures all of which have long-since rotted away in the tropical heat. Only gods could live in stone, or in this case, the god-kings of the Khmer nation. Portuguese travelers are believed to have been the first westerners to gaze in wonder at the temples of Angkor while journeying during the 16th Century. However, most credit for the "discovery" of Angkor has fallen to French botanist Henri Mouhot, whose visit to Angkor in 1860 was posthumously documented in Paris in 1868. During the remainder of the 19th Century and into the 20th Century several French expeditions visited the temples and work was carried out to clear the jungle, which had enveloped most of the monuments. In 1907, Thailand returned control of Angkor to Cambodia and in the same year the first tourists arrived. In the early days of tourism visitors to Angkor followed one of two circuits to see the temples, the Little (Petit) Circuit or the Big (Grand) Circuit. These were often undertaken on the back of an elephant. Today things are different, and air-conditioned vehicles make the experience significantly more comfortable. If time is limited, visitors may choose to follow "the Petit Circuit", which includes visits to the Royal City of Angkor Thom with its numerous temples, Angkor Wat, the royal bathing pool of Sras Srang, and several other monuments. Extended tours continue to the "Grand Circuit", visiting a number of other temples and an Angkorean reservoir. If time allows, tourists may also arrange to visit other prestigious temples such as Banteay Srey or Banteay Samre, situated slightly further from the main temple complex.
____________________Angkor Wat
There are few places anywhere on earth to match the splendour of Angkor Wat. The temple is one of the largest monuments to religion ever built and is truly one the wonders of the world. Believed to have been constructed as a temple and mausoleum for King Suryavarman II at the peak of the Khmer empire in the first half of the 12th century, Angkor Wat is probably the best-preserved of the Angkorean temples. As with other Angkorean temples and walled cities such as Angkor Thom, the central theme of Khmer architecture revolved around the idea of the temple-mountain. By the time building on Angkor Wat was begun early in the 12th century, this had been elaborated to a central tower surrounded by four smaller towers. The central monument represents the mythical Mount Meru, the holy mountain at the centre of the universe, which was home to the Hindu god Vishnu. The five towers symbolise Mount Meru's five peaks. It is difficult to express in words the enormous scale of Angkor Wat, but it can be explained in part by a look at the dimensions of the complex. The temple is surrounded by a moat which makes the one around the Tower of London, built at roughly the same time, look like nothing more than a garden trench. At 190 metres wide and forming a rectangle measuring 1.5 km by 1.3 km, it is hard to imagine any attacking force overwhelming the defences. But the moat was more than just a defensive bulwark, in line with the temple's Hindu origins it represented the oceans of the world. A rectangular wall measuring 1025 metres by 800 metres borders the inner edge of the moat. There is a gate in each side of the wall, but unusually for the mainly Hindu-influenced Angkorian temples, the main entrance faces west. This entrance is a richly decorated portico, 235 m wide with three gates. However, the temple's greatest sculptural treasure is its 2 km-long bas-reliefs around the walls of the outer gallery and the hundred figures of devatas and apsaras. This intricately carved gallery tells stories of the god Vishnu and of Suryavarman II's successes on the battlefield. The whole complex covers 81 hectares.
____________________Angkor Thom
This Royal city was first built under the reign of Udayadityavarman II in the 11th Century. It was destroyed when the Chams from Vietnam rose up against the Khmers and invaded, sacking the city, and was subsequently renovated by King Jayavarman VII at the end of the 12th Century. Inside its walls there are many monuments including;
____________________Bayon
This temple mountain built by Jayavarman VII is situated in the centre of the city of Angkor Thom. It is a three-tiered pyramid with its entrance facing East. The central shrine is surrounded by 54 towers all crowned by gigantic faces, representing Lokiteshvara but with the features of Jayavarman VII. They gaze out to the North, South, East and West, and wherever you are in the temple, you are surrounded by these enigmatic faces, smiling at you all the time. Unlike his predecessors who had worshipped the Hindu deities of Shiva and Vishnu, Jayavarman VII adopted Mahayana Buddhism as the fount of royal divinity. This sets The Bayon apart from many other Angkorean monuments.
____________________Baphuon
This temple built by Udayadityarvarman II was the most poorly constructed of all the temples in Angkor. From the remaining ruins, it is possible to see how imposing it was. This temple hill was dedicated to Shiva, but in its reliefs many motives from the Vishnu epic can be seen. Restoration work continues to be carried out on the Baphuon.
____________________Terrace of the Elephants & Terrace of the Leper King
At the North of the Baphuon lies the Royal city, of which very little remains except these two Terraces. The first owes its name to the outstanding depiction of elephants, while the second gets its name from the magnificent sculpture of King Yasovarman, popularly known as the Leper King. The original of this statue is now in the National Museum in Phnom Penh.
____________________Ta Prohm
This temple was a monastery built by Jayavarman VII as a residence for his mother. Ta Prohm has been controversially left to the destructive power of the jungle by French archeologists to show how nature can destroy man's work. It has been largely overgrown by the jungle and as you climb through the dilapidated stone structures you see many giant trees growing out of the top of the temple itself. It's the sort of place where you'd expect to see Indiana Jones step out from behind a fallen pillar. As such, it is one of the most regularly visited temples, with visitors often arriving during the warmer hours of the middle of the day to take advantage of the protective canopy the forest spreads above the temple. Ta Prohm looks as many of the monuments did when European explorers first laid eyes on them.
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Ta Keo
King Suryavarman I commissioned this temple in the 10th Century but it was never completed. It is a pyramid on 5 levels whose total height is 22 metres. It is dedicated to Shiva.
____________________Banteay Kdei
This temple was constructed by Jayavarman VII during the 12th and 13th Centuries. It system of galleries and vestibules that were added after the construction of the main towers makes it look like a cloister. It was built in sandstone, which has deteriorated quite badly. However, there remain some very beautiful lintels and pediments.
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Srah Srang
The royal pool is situated opposite the East gate of Banteay Kdei. It is known as the King's bath.
____________________Pre Rup
This temple was built in the 10th Century by Rajendravarman. Its proportions are perfect, a truly beautiful piece of work. In its construction we can see the first appearance of the long halls which are very common in the construction of temples with continuous galleries. Pre Rup means turning the body and the Khmer people believe this temple was a funeral monument.
____________________East Mebon
Also built in the 10th Century by Rajendravarman, this temple was situated on a small island in the middle of the Oriental, or Eastern, Baray. It has all the characteristics of the mountain temple but was accessible by boat only. From the inscriptions found close to it, we know that Rajendravarman dedicated it to his parents.
____________________Neak Pean
Built by Jayavarman VII, this temple is the perfect representation on earth of the cosmic world. It has been said that this monument was consecrated to Buddha who reached perfection in Nirvana, and the ornamental lakes surrounding it were meant as places where pilgrims could wash and purify themselves before reaching the supreme perfection. In the centre of these ornamental lakes there is a small temple surrounded by two nagas, whose heads allow a passage on the West side. This temple is one of the beauties of Khmer art.
____________________Bakong
Late 9th Hindu Indravannan I Preah Ko
Roluos Group: The most impressive member of the Roluos Group, sitting at the center of the first Khmer capital, Hariharalaya. Bakong stands 15 meters tall and is 650x850 meters at the outer wall. Constructed by the third Angkorian-era king as his state-temple, Bakong represents the first application of the temple-mountain architectural formula on a grand scale and set the architectural tone for the next 400 years. The temple displays a very early use of stone rather than brick. Though begun by Indravarman I, Bakong was expanded by later kings. The uppermost section and tower may have been added as late as the 12th century AD. Some of the lintel carvings, particularly on the outer towers, are in good shape. Picturesque moat and vegetation surround Bakong.
____________________Baksei Chamkrong
Mid 10th Hindu Harshavarman I
Baksei Chamkrong is a 12-meter tall brick and laterite pyramid. Combine with a visit to the South Gate and Phnom Bakheng. Lighting is best in the morning. Harshavarman I began construction or perhaps dedicated statues at the site. The temple was later improved/restored by Rajendravarman II shortly after the capital was returned to Angkor from Koh Ker. According to inscriptions on the doorway Rajendravarman consecrated the temple with the installation of golden Shiva image in 947AD. It may have also served as funerary temple.
____________________Bantreay Srey
Built by a Brahman in the 10th Century, this temple was dedicated to Shiva. The famous pink sandstone structure bears a series of beautiful sculptures, lintels, pediments and friezes. While not a particularly large temple complex, the beauty of Banteay Srey is found not in the scale but the detail. Some say the bas relief work is the best example of Khmer classical art remaining.
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Phnom Krom
Built by Yacovarman I in the 10th Century, this temple sits atop a hill and is interesting mostly for the view it offers of the valley and the Tonle Sap. The temple is in a very poor state, but its ruins are worth visiting. We recommend a late afternoon visit to enjoy the landscape and refreshing winds.
____________________Barays
The East and West Barays are two enormous lakes, both entirely man made. They were central to the health and vigour of Khmer civilisation. Their irrigation purpose is nowadays a matter of debate among Angkor specialists. The East Baray is now empty, whereas the Western one is still half full.
____________________Roluos
About 10 km from Siem Reap lies the complex of Roluos, one of the first Khmer capitals built by Jayavarman II, then called Hariharalaya. Today we can visit three remaining Hindu sanctuaries: Preah Ko, Bakong and Lolei. All three temples were built of brick and though they are not as spectacular as the other temples of Angkor, they are well preserved and very interesting.
____________________Kbal Spean
More commonly known to foreigners as the River of a Thousand Lingas, this is an area of riverbed carvings similar to Phnom Kulen, but more peaceful. Kbal Spean is about a half-hour walk up a pleasant path shaded by jungle to where the carvings begin. It is sensible although not entirely necessary to get someone to guide you who can also tell you about what you are actually seeing. Either way, do not wander off well-trodden paths as there is a serious landmine problem here. The river eventually appears on your left and the first carvings include a large image of Vishnu. As you continue on, you come to an area with several good images of Rama, Lachsme and Hanuman, and further up some lingas. On the way back down there is a path which follows the river and along this stretch are hundreds of lingas, hence the name the River of a Thousand Lingas. These eventually lead to a waterfall with a pool below. Kbal Spean is about 30 km north-east of the Bayon and about 9 km beyond the temple of Banteay Srei along a good dirt road.
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Beng Melea
Sprawling jungle temple covering over one square kilometer. The temple is largely overrun by vegetation and very lightly touristed, giving it an adventurous, ‘lost temple’ feel. Photographers: trees growing from the broken towers and galleries offer some of the best ‘tree in temple’ shots aside from Ta Prohm. Constructed in a distinctly Angkor Wat style under the same king that built Angkor Wat, Beng Melea preceded and may have served as a prototype of sorts for Angkor Wat. Though there are some lintel and doorway carvings, there are no bas-reliefs and the carvings are comparatively sparse. When the temple was active, the walls may have been covered, painted or had frescos. In its time, Beng Melea was at the crossroads of several major highways that ran to Angkor, Koh Ker, Preah Vihear (in northern Cambodia) and northern Vietnam. Regular admission ticket are not required but there is a separate $5 entrance fee. Beng Melea is located 63km east of town. The road is now in good condition and the trip from Siem Reap takes 1-2 hours. Graded dirt road with occasional flooding in the rainy season.Phnom Kulen
Phnom Kulen is considered by Khmer people to be the most sacred mountain in Cambodia and is a popular place of pilgrimage. It played a significant role in the history of the Khmer empire as it was from here in 802 that Jayarvarman II proclaimed independence from Java, giving birth to modern Cambodia. There is a small wat at the summit of the mountain which houses a large reclining Buddha carved into a sandstone boulder. The better option is to continue to the top by car or moto. Bear in mind foreigners must pay a separate fee of $20 to use the road. From the base of the mountain it is a long climb to the top, at least one-and-a-half hours even at a good pace. At the top a mostly shaded and flat path takes no more than 30 to 45 minutes before you reach a small river, into the bed of which are carved numerous lingas. There is a waterfall nearby in which you can swim, and an overgrown temple dating from the Angkor period. From the top of Phnom Kulen, 461 metres at its highest point, the spectacular view spans right across the forested plateau.
____________________Angkor Borie
Angkor Borie is a town in the area of several ruins and archaeological digs. The area contains artifacts dating from the Funan (4th/5th century) and Water Chenla (8th century) as well as the later Angkorian period. The prasat ruins on top of nearby Phnom Da are 11th century Angkorian. There is a smalll museum in the town.
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Phimeanakas
Impressive laterite and sandstone pyramid. The lack of surviving carvings leaves it artistically uninteresting, but it is the tallest scalable temple in Angkor Thom, providing a nice view from the top. The western staircase (at the back) is the most easily ascended. Located inside the ancient Royal Palace compound, Phimeanakas served as the king’s temple. Legend has it that the golden tower crowned the temple and was inhabited by a serpent, which would transform into a woman. The kings of Angkor were required to make love with the serpent every night, lest disaster befall him or the kingdom.
Tonle Sap Lake and the Prek Toal Bird Sanctuary
Cambodia's Great Lake, the Boeung Tonle Sap (Tonle Sap Lake,) is the most prominent feature on the map of Cambodia - a huge dumbbell-shaped body of water stretching across the northwest section of the country. In the wet season, the Tonle Sap Lake is one of the largest freshwater lakes in Asia, swelling to an expansive 12,000 km2. During the dry half of the year the Lake shrinks to as small as 2500 km2, draining into the Tonle Sap River, which meanders southeast, eventually merging with the Mekong River at the 'chaktomuk' confluence of rivers opposite Phnom Penh. But during the wet season a unique hydrologic phenomenon causes the river to reverse direction, filling the lake instead of draining it. The engine of this phenomenon is the Mekong River, which becomes bloated with snow melt and runoff from the monsoon rains in the wet season. The swollen Mekong backs up into the Tonle Sap River at the point where the rivers meet at the 'chaktomuk' confluence, forcing the waters of the Tonle Sap River back upriver into the lake. The inflow expands the surface area of lake more than five-fold, inundating the surrounding forested floodplain and supporting an extraordinarily rich and diverse eco-system. More than 100 varieties of waterbirds including several threatened and endangered species, over 200 species of fish, as well as crocodiles, turtles, macaques, otter and other wildlife inhabit the inundated mangrove forests. The Lake is also an important commercial resource, providing more than half of the fish consumed in Cambodia. In harmony with the specialized ecosystems, the human occupations at the edges of the lake is similarly distinctive - floating villages, towering stilted houses, huge fish traps, and an economy and way of life deeply intertwined with the lake, the fish, the wildlife and the cycles of rising and falling waters.
The lake sits only about 15 km south of Siem Reap town. If you take the ferry between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap you will cross the lake and dock at the village of Chong Khneas. There are several ways to see the culture and wildlife of the lake area depending on the amount of time you have and your interest.
Chong Khneas
Chong Khneas is the floating village at the edge of the lake closest and most accessible to Siem Reap. If you want a relatively quick and easy look at the Tonle Sap, boat tours of Chong Khneas are available, departing from the Chong Khneas boat docks all day long. Take a motodup or taxi the 11-15km from Siem Reap to the boat docks where there are always boats waiting for passengers. A two-hour boat trip through the floating village runs $6 and the boats may carry as many as 15 other people. The boatman will probably point out the differing Khmer and Vietnamese floating households and the floating markets, clinics, schools and other boatloads of tourists. Chong Khneas, while interesting, is over-touristed and is not as picturesque and 'unspoiled' as floating villages further from Siem Reap. The boat trip usually includes two stops: one at a touristy floating 'fish and bird exhibition' with a souvenir and snack shop, and the other at the very highly recommended Gecko Environment Centre, which offers displays and information introducing the ecology and biodiversity of the lake area.Prek Toal Bird Sanctuary
The 'bird sanctuary' at the Prek Toal core area of the Tonle Sap Biosphere Reserve has been called "the single most important breeding ground in Southeast Asia for globally threatened large waterbirds." The Biosphere covers 31,282 hectares at the northwest tip of the Tonle Sap Lake and plays host to species including Greater and Lesser Adjuncts, Black-headed Ibis, Painted Stork, Milky Stork, Spot-billed Pelican, Grey-Headed Fish Eagle and many more species. Of the three Biosphere core areas on the Tonle Sap Lake, Prek Toal is the most accessible from Siem Reap and the most popular with birdwatchers. The best time of year for viewing is the dry season when flocks of migratory birds congregate at Prek Toal. As the dry season progresses and the water recedes, the number of birds increases but the travel to some of the more important viewing areas becomes more difficult.Most people arrange a trip to Prek Toal through their guesthouse or a tour operator. To do it yourself, take a moto or taxi from Siem Reap to the Phnom Krom/Chong Khneas boat dock. Arrange a boat to the Prek Toal Environmental Research Station (starting at $35-$45 return,) and then from the Research Station a $5 entrance fee and $15-$25 for a guided boat tour of the sanctuary. The Research Station has information on the area's flora and fauna. There are also basic overnight accommodations at the Research Station if you want to stay the night to take full advantage of the sunset and early morning viewing hours.
Kampong Phluk
Kampong Phluk is a cluster of three villages of stilted houses built within the floodplain of the Tonle Sap about 16 km southeast of Siem Reap. The villages are primarily Khmer and have about 3000 inhabitants between them. Flooded mangrove forest surrounds the area and is home to a variety of wildlife including crab-eating macaques. During the dry season when the lake is low, the buildings in the villages seem to soar atop their 6-meter stilts exposed by the lack of water. At this time of year many of the villagers move out onto the lake and build temporary stilted houses. In the wet season when water level rises again, the villagers move back to their permanent houses on the floodplain, the stilts now hidden under the water. Kampong Phluk's economy is, as one might expect, based in fishing, primary in shrimp harvesting.Kampong Phluk sees comparatively few foreign visitors and offers a close look at the submerged forest and lakeside village life as yet unperturbed by tourism. The area can be reached by boat from the Chong Khneas or by a combination of road and boat. Make arrangements through your guesthouse of tour operator, or charter a boat at the Chong Khneas docks (starting at $35 return for a half-day at the village). By road/boat, take a car or moto to Roluos village just off Route #6 east of Siem Reap and the take a boat through the flooded forest the rest of the way to the village. During the dry season the road is clear and you can drive all of the way to the village.
Kampong Khleang
Kampong Khleang is located on the northern lake-edge about 35 km east of Siem Reap town, more remote and less touristed than Kampong Phluk. Visitors to Kampong Khleang during the dry season are universally awestruck by the forest of stilted houses rising up to 10 meters in the air. In the wet season the waters rise to within one or two meters of the buildings. Like Kampong Phluk, Kampong Khleang is a permanent community within the floodplain of the Lake, with an economy based in fishing and surrounded by flooded forest. But Kampong Khleang is significantly larger with near 10 times the population of Kampong Phluk, making it the largest community on the Lake.The area can be reached by boat from the Chong Khneas docks or by a combination of road to Domdek on Route #6 and then boat to the village, the best method depending on the time of year. During the dry season, boats cannot get all of the way to the main villages. Consult your guesthouse or tour operator about current conditions. Many tour operators have very little experience in this area so it is best to consult with adventure tour operators and guesthouses that specialize in this area. Small group tours begin at about $35 for a half day and range up through $70 depending on the size of the group and the type of tour. To get there yourself, either charter a boat from Chong Khneas or take car or moto to Domdek village on Route #6 east of Siem Reap, turn south and continue to the water's edge where boats wait to ferry passengers into the village. During the dry season the road is clear and you can take a car or moto all of the way to the village.)
